Truman Show

Taxichauffören har rullar med växelmynt intill växelspaken. Sådana där som de har i mataffärer, att ladda kassaapparaten med.
Det heter ju växelspak, så visst, kanske är det för att man ska strö småmynt kring den.
”Är du inte rädd för rånrisken?”, frågar jag.
Hans leende glimmar i kvällssolen.
”Nej. Nej, inte här. Kanske när jag jobbade i Stockholm. Det var lite hårdare klimat där.”
Det kan jag nog tro att det var.
*
En dag talar jag och ett gäng ålänningar och en annan svensk om kriminalitet. Jag pratar om den där tidningsnotisen om någon som ryckt i bildörrar i Kattby. Och nu sa polisen att folk faktiskt borde låsa sina bildörrar – åtminstone om man befann sig i Kattby.
”Där jag bor spelar det ingen roll om man har låst bilen, de slår in rutan och stjäl den ändå.”, sa svensken.
”Åjo, nog har vi sånt på Åland också”, kontrade en av ålänningarna. ”Det var ju de här bilstölderna, för ett tag sen -”
”Men det var ju folk som lämnat bilen olåst med nyckeln i tändningslåset.”, sa en annan ålänning.
Jag känner mig ännu inte överväldigad av den åländska kriminaliteten.
*
En kompis jobbade här sommaren innan jag kom hit. Innan jag sökte mitt första jobb här korsförhörde jag honom om hur det var.
rätt ofta är det som Truman show, sa han.
Alltså den där filmen om en kille vars liv är en dokusåpa och alla är skådespelare utom han. Och alla omkring honom är så trevliga, så oerhört trevliga, i den manusförfattade superidyllen.
Och jo. Ibland är folk så oförblommerat trevliga att man nästan vänder sig om och letar efter kamerorna. Man blir ständigt erbjuden hjälp och råd. Av främlingar på stan, patienter, grannar, kollegor. Mycket handlar om Åland, själva livet på Åland, allt fantastiskt med Åland, vad man kan uppleva på Åland. Kärleken till den egna geografiska platsen är så stor, den kan genomsyra allt, ibland tänker jag att kanske är det därför folk är så vänliga. Precis som kristna har tryggheten i sin kärlek till Gud har ålänningarna tryggheten i sin kärlek till Åland, och klampar man på genom livet med en sådan grundtrygghet blir det bara en godmodig gemytlighet kvar.
Blandat med lite skvaller förstås – vems småkusin (syssling) känner vems gamla högstadiekompis, man bläddrar igenom lokaltidningen för att se vem som köpte det där huset på den där gatan och är det någon man känner med jo titta där var minsann grannen med på bild på sida fyra, det går bra nu minsann.
*
Mina barn kunde aldrig den svenska flaggan men efter några månader på åländskt dagis pekar de vilt när vi passerar Ålandsflaggan där den vajar på flaggstången utanför Hotell Arkipelag. Ålandsflaggan! Det är ÅLANDSFLAGGAN!, ropar femåringen, på gungande diftongrik åländska, det är VÅR flagga!
Vår flagga!, ekar treåringen.
Åland., sammanfattar ett-och-ett-halvtåringen, man behöver inte levt länge för att ha begripit att det är Åland som är grejen.
*
Och det är solen och havet och klipporna, det är att träffa samma patient på hälsocentralen och på akuten och på medicinavdelningen och på geriatriken för att litenheten ger en automatisk kontinuitet. Det är Östersjöfisken som serveras överallt. Den som svenska rekommendationer säger att man bara ska äta tre gånger per år om man är barn eller ammande eller gravid men som finska rekommendationer säger att man kan äta tre gånger per månad, och trots allt är den ju åländsk.
Det är känslan av att finnas i ett sammanhang där alla vet vilka andra är och att det är en trygghet. Det är känslan av att finnas i ett sådant sammanhang och tänka att tänk om jag är alldeles för mycket för att få plats i det här, vem blir man här om alla vet vem man är men ingen vill en väl. Och samtidigt – det är Truman Show. Mest är ju folk snälla.
Men visst händer det att man skulle vilja knacka hårt på himlen för att se om en dörr öppnar sig och det visar sig att allting bara är en kuliss.
*
Det är barnen på gatan som kan springa tryggt mellan husen, barnomsorgens personaltäthet, att oftast kunna stå på akuten och fokusera på vilken patient som behöver läggas in, inte vilken avdelning man kan tjata sig till en plats på.
Det är ett äventyr som just har börjat, det är att inte veta hur det slutar.
Det är att ha bott här tillräckligt länge för att veta hur det är att vara på den här platsen, men inte länge nog för att veta hur det är att bli kvar på den här platsen.
Det är så mycket som återstår att upptäcka.
Det är Åland.
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